Cusco & Machu Picchu

My last adventure in South America was a trip to see the famous lost city of Machu Picchu (on the left), labeled by many as the greatest archeological site in South America. Located near Cusco, Peru, the city was built 2,430 meters above sea level (8,900 feet) at the top of a mountain in such a secluded spot that it wasn't rediscovered until 1911.

For any trip to Machu Picchu one must begin their journey in Cusco. Located at 3,300 meters (a little more than 10,000 feet) you find yourself short of breath and dizzy when you first arrive. Given the altitude, its amazing that there are over 300,000 people that live here. Because of its proximity to Machu Picchu, the city itself is touristy - I didn't realize how many friends I had until I arrived in Cusco and everyone and their brother approached me with the expression "My friend...." trying to sell me something. However once you get past the aggressive vendors, you quickly begin to appreciate the city and its history.

Plaza de Armas in Cusco - From Cusco & Machu Picchu

Once the capital of the Incan Empire, which until the Spanish and their diseases arrived was the largest empire in the world, Cusco and the surrounding Sacred Valley offer a wide variety of ancient sites. Touring the various sites you quickly appreciate how advanced the Incans were. Many structures were built with massive stones that weighed up to 80 tons and were cut so precisely that no mortar was needed. In fact their construction methods were so sound that many of the original foundations still remain despite numerous earthquakes that have occurred over the years.

From Cusco & Machu Picchu

After three days in Cusco I set out on a five day trek to Machu Picchu. While most people travel the famous Incan trail to the Machu Picchu (the only way which directly takes you to the site) I was unable to book a slot in time for my trip. Happily there were other options and I joined a tour with five other travelers that took us along the Salkantay trek to Aguas Caliente, the town closest to Machu Picchu.

Mt. Salkantay - From Cusco & Machu Picchu

Passing by Salkantay Moutain, our trek took us up to 4,600 meters (15,000 feet) on the first and second day and then led us downhill into a valley for the following two days. As a result I experienced a variety of climates, going from sub zero temperatures on the first day to sub tropical conditions on the third and fourth days (and a wide variety of biting bugs as well!). Even though I felt like I was in shape, climbing up to 4,600 meters was one of the harder challenges I've faced in a while. At times if felt like I could only go about five steps before I needed to stop and catch my breath. I was lucky enough to have a great group and guide with me along the way, and we all supported each other through the laborious ascent to 4,600 meters.

From Cusco & Machu Picchu

The entire trek was amazing, with stunning mountains, paths along steep cliffs, all types of farm animals along our path in the valley (and unfortunately roosters that woke me around 3:30 am for three days straight), and a drunk cook who kept us up until about 1 am in the morning on our final day of camping. Thankfully he saved this little stunt until our last day and the only real damage was a bad breakfast the next day.

Arriving in Aguas Caliente on the afternoon of our fourth day, we went to bed early in anticipation of an early departure for Machu Picchu the next morning. Rising early we caught a 5:30 am bus to the site with about 300 other visitors. Getting their early allows you to get in line to climb Huayna Picchu, a mountain that rises over Machu Picchu and allows you to get a complete view of the city (in the picture at the top of this post, it is the mountain in the background on the right hand side). Little did I know that this visit would test my dormant fear of heights. With a narrow path built into the side of the mountain and a summit that has structures with ledges and foot paths that border between 500 and 1,000 meter drop offs, the ascent to the top was nerve racking to say the least.

Machu Picchu seen from Huayna Picchu - From Cusco & Machu Picchu

The view from the top... - From Cusco & Machu Picchu

After a tense 30 minutes at the top (with many of my friends wondering if I was going to make it) we descended down to Machu Picchu and spent the next 2 hours touring the city. With much of the city intact you get the chance to peer into the Incan culture like no where else and quickly appreciate how advanced they were (i.e. their use of terraces on the side of the mountain for agriculture and retention). It was and still is an amazing city and I highly recommend that if you get the chance you visit this site. I hope my pictures do it justice. Given it was my last adventure in South America as part of this trip, I am glad I saved this visit until last.

From Cusco & Machu Picchu

From Cusco & Machu Picchu

From Cusco & Machu Picchu

Peru

I was originally booked on a flight back to the US on April 3o, but I decided to extend my stay in South America for over a month and take in Peru on my way home. Hoping to practice my Spanish some more I decided to sign up for a volunteer opportunity for the month. Through my research I came across Bruce Peru, a nonprofit organization set up to help children with basic education. Even better, Bruce Peru also had a small project that involved working with a expat American, Michael, who was trying to set up a Peruvian based business that would make wind generators and solar water heaters. The organization, Wind Aid, was established to provide affordable energy solutions for Peruvians that did not have access to electricity from the grid (approximately 25% of the countries citizens do not have access to electricity). Given my interest in getting into the renewable energy space when I return to the states, it was a great opportunity for me to get exposure to the field. After a weekend stop in Lima (that's the Presidential palace above), where I stayed with my Mom's cousin it was off to Trujillo for the month.

A Wind Aid wind turbine (2 KW) - From Peru

Solar hot water panel - From Peru

Working with Michael and his team of two Peruvians, I helped construct wind turbines and solar hot water panels from basic materials and advised Michael on ways he could improve his production and grow the business. A true start up, the company was based at Michael's house and we used his garage for construction of the product. It was a great experience and I learned a lot about the challenges of manufacturing and operating a business in Peru, where even the process of getting raw materials and parts can at times be challenging.

Building turbine blades - From Peru

You can read more about Wind Aid by clicking on the this link. You can also learn more about Bruce Peru by clicking here.

Cathedral in Trujillo - From Peru

View from the Plaza de Armas in Trujillo - From Peru

When I wasn't working I was able to take in the historic city of Trujillo, the third largest city in Peru, and the surrounding area, which included a number of pre Incan ruins. Once impressive site was Chan Chan, the largest Pre Columbian city in South America. The city lasted from AD 850 to approximately 1470 AD when it was conquered by the Incans. Thought to be the worlds largest adobe city, it is impressive site that spreads out over 20 square km.

Chan Chan - From Peru

In addition to site seeing I also tried my hand at surfing in the nearby surfing town of Huanchaco. While I did barely manage to get up, I found that I do much better when the ground isn't moving beneath me.